Simply Done
This is not the first time Janet V. has sent me a photo of a T-Shirt quilt! Here’s her note:
Here is the front of my first quilt used with starched t-shirts! These were shirts we bought when we were traveling in the rv!!!
I finally found liquid starch at Walmart! Couldn’t find starch except the spray ones! I really liked the starched t-shirts! They were so much easier to use!
Look at those decorative stitches! We always have fun in class learning to use those gorgeous stitches and pretty threads to do the quilting on our “crazy cut” blocks. Thank you Cheryl for sending a photo to share with everyone!
I have to say, my jaw dropped at Brian’s adaptations to my “cheap (foam) custom table”. Here’s his story and it’s a great read! He’s a sewist, innovator, and great writer!
Marguerita,
Brian’s Pfancy Pfaff Pfewing Mapfhine Table
I’m not really a quilter, but, when I bought a Pfaff Creative 3.0 and I wanted a better table than the coffee table (which I knew was not a good ergo work table and hated with a passion) that I had been using for my Pfaff 1222, so I Googled and found your table. I won’t say that I ran with it, I ran, swan, flew and did a triathlon with it. I liked the table, the idea, the ergo and the materials, but couldn’t stand the idea of all that potential storage space going to waste and needed to adapt for the embroidery mechanism, so here’s my version of your table, to fit a Pfaff Creative 3.0, with storage and adaptable for the embroidery section:
It’s made of half-inch (actually 5/8”) and one inch foam with some 1/4” birch plywood. I used the vinyl for all lid hinges. Some of the sections are held on the table by Command Strips that are like Velcro—I can fold the table with some of the sections still on, good for travel. And before you ask (he said innocently), no, I didn’t intend to have the panther on the lids, I can’t imagine (grins) why you’d ask. Actually, the panther insisted that as long as he was going to be involved, he wanted to be able to watch and make sure I was doing things correctly. On most sections, the vinyl can be flipped up and notes & stuff placed under it.
I was prepared to drill additional holes in the legs for the height adjustment, but didn’t need to—according to what I learned in the aerospace industry, as little as an inch can make a huge difference in ergo comfort
The area to the left of the machine is thread and general storage, with 36 pins to hold spools and bobbins (I found some nice bobbin holders that fit on spools). It is also shadow-boxed for the things that are not thread. This section (and the section behind it) slide to the left when using the embroidery mech. I had to shape the lid of this section to match the curve of the machine.
The area in front of the machine I didn’t do anything with as it will be supporting (occasionally) my arms and will take the brunt of things sliding over the table. It had to have a portion under the normal machine table excavated for the machine’s storage compartment lid.
The area to the right and in front of the machine has to have access to the feed-dog control knob, so part of it is removeable and under it is a space for two tape measures and thread scissors. With magnets on the end to hold pins and magnets for a pivot so the lid can be removed. This section sets the front position of the machine.
To the right of the machine is a block that sets the position of the machine.
The area behind and to the right of the machine is a space where I put the normal machine table when I use the embroidery mechanism. This also sets the position of the machine.
The area behind where the embroidery mechanism goes was hardest, it must have clearance for the mechanism, which is a different height (and under-side) and width than the regular machine table and have the height & space for the machine table, too. The two sections have some general storage.
All the sections have vinyl tops which can be lifted to place notes or such and still be protected.
Many re-dos and changes of design, but, of course, I didn’t make any mistakes— I meant to do that!. I learned that from my cat. ;^)
Thank you for inspiring me.
Brian S
I rearrange my spaces all the time, but in fifteen years I’ve never taken my foam away. I’ve changed a bit, cutting it, moving machines, and adding contact paper instead of heavy vinyl, but the basic blocks are still the same and I still love it so much that I won’t sew without it.
You’ll never see a pretty, staged, photo of my space – this is my reality, where I sew and quilt, mend clothes and play.
I was inspired to post again because I recently received this lovely note from Kevin in Iowa:
I’m a retired guy. Decided to learn to sew, make curtains, place mats, maybe quilting squares someday. Just bought a Brother CS7000X & was looking for an ergonomically correct table setup. Searched online & found your 2008 blog post & YT videos using folding table & beadboard insulation. Brilliant! I was thinking about building a wooden sewing cabinet but your idea is less expensive & more adaptable. Looking forward to visiting your website again as I build my sewing skills.
Hope time has been kind to you & your family & you’re staying healthy during the pandemic. Thanks for working out a clever solution & helping others like me.
Kevin K, Iowa
If you’ve never seen them, here are the videos about how and why I created this “cheap” custom table for sewing and quilting – http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBF5C338341F28BF9&feature=view_all
Just a note to thank you so much for your recent book!
I have just finished my first T-shirt quilt using your book as my guide. Your concise instructions and helpful hints made this a very enjoyable project. I used flannel for the backing so it was heavy at the end to work with – but things worked out!
Thank you once again!
Dawn R
Judy has sent me several pics of her T-Shirt Quilts. Here’s a graduation quilt and story!
Hello Marguerita,
I don’t think I sent you the picture of the finished quilt and also pillows too –for Shawn’s graduation.
So here it is on his bed and also when he first got it.
He was so pleased, they went to visit other grandparents and he came home, said he could not take it any longer and put it on his bed.
I had enough backing left to make two pillows with backing fabric and a couple more tee shirt blocks for them—and did the binding in that too.
He ended up having three graduations. He attended the Lycoming County Career and Tech Center and we were so pleased he was Student of the Year there. That was a drive up and get out get diploma/certificate.
He had to do a speech and because he was SOY. He was allow two more people and chose us.
We were the only Non-parents there – well for the seniors!
Then Muncy High School allowed 15 minutes with 15 people to attend and receive diploma during restrictions.
However the restrictions lifted and Shawn had a regular/short but as it should be done– Muncy High School Graduation.
We were so pleased for him. There are school around that only did the drive up and get diploma.
He’s off to Pennsylvania College of Technology to do the Honda Certified Mechanic two year Program with 100% placement.
It sure is a scary world we are living in at this time.
Be Safe, Blessings to all.
Your PA friend,
Judy
If you look closely you will see pictures.
P.S. I got the material you put thru the printer and printed picture of first day first grade and first day of Senior Year. That was a big success, he loved them on his quilt.
Judy
This quilt isn’t done as quilt-as-you-go but Judy’s first ones were and we continue to stay in touch! Thank you Judy S!
Use ribbon, string, elastic, hairloop elastics, whatever you can to tie into earloops and secure them around your head, not your ears.
Two or more ponytail holders make an approximately 5″ loop, which is a good length for providing the right amount of tautness to hold a mask firmly to your face for extended periods of time and still allow enough stretch and space to safely remove your mask. Use safe practices when removing a used mask or you’ve wasted your time wearing it!
Use ribbon or string to tie the elastics to the ear loops of an earloop-style mask. Earloops can pop off and then put strain and pain on your ears. There’s always a way to make things better…
I had to go grocery shopping and wanted a covering for my old N95 mask.
I have been wearing masks for years when I work on anything from insulating my cabin with fiberglass…
…to tearing down an old cabin filled with black mold. I am very used to using masks and I have several that I re-use. I attend professional training regularly on the proper use of PPE. One of my N95 masks is tan colored from the sand in Arizona, where the sand holds a fungi that can cause a condition called “Mohave Valley Fever”, a miserable respiratory infection that I don’t want.
But an N95 mask is rather a scary looking thing and I wanted some bling to cover it. So, I dumped out my shimmery fabrics, sorted them by color and found a nice band of bangles I’ve always wanted to use.
This mask is one thin layer of Lamé (Wiki on Lamé) with top and bottom hem, no nose-piece and rolled-hem channels on the sides for ribbon. Lamé fabric is so loosely woven that it would never make a good mask, but it sure makes a fun cover-up. The gold ‘coins’ are Wrights Twill with Coin Trim. I’m pretty sure I’ll be making more of these. This one started as 10″ wide by 8 and 1/4″ top-to-bottom but there was still some mask showing. I’ll cut the next one to 10″ x 9″ or maybe even 9 and a half inches.
Tom and I were sharing mask ideas when he came up with the idea of a paperclip nose piece for masks and it’s genius. The nose piece is important because the goal of the mask is to be snug to your face.
We have been training with PPE for almost 20 years and we understand its importance and how to properly don and remove it.
To make, straighten a regular (not jumbo) paperclip and use a needle-nose pliers to turn the ends under. Slip the straightened metal into the hem of a cloth face mask and center, then form the curve with your thumbs. Try the mask on to see how it fits and continue to bend the metal until the fit is snug against the bridge of your nose.
This test is with two layers of batik, testing ribbons and elastic. I like a thicker (3/8″) ribbon over the thinner (1/4″) and I much prefer the sewn channel along the side versus leaving it open, which is what I tried at first.
This is a double layer of batik fabric that was very comfortable to wear. It has the “pocket opening” at the top and the molded nose-piece.
I also prefer sewing the ribbon ends versus tying them and I really like this wider piece of elastic (1″ wide) I found in one of my sewing bins. It slid comfortably on and off and held the mask in place very well. I cut 7″ and sewed the ends closed, leaving enough room to thread the ribbon, attached to a safety pin, through.
Here’s my tutorial for a Home Use Fabric Mask – https://www.crazyshortcutquilts.com/diy-face-mask-with-ribbon/
